So you want to get into Kite Landboarding...?

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The Landboarding NZ Ltd introduction to kite landboarding: -

1. So what is Landboarding?
2. What are the advantages of Landboarding
3. The different styles of Landboarding
4. Some background on Boards
5. All about Traction Kites
6. Safety First
7. What is the 'Wind Window'
8. Some kite control drills to practice
9. Step on the board and move off

 

 

So what is Landboarding?

Landboarding, or Kite Landboarding, (also known as Kite Ground Boarding, (KGB), or KiteATB), in its simplest terms is the use of a powerful traction kite to pull you along whilst standing on a wheeled all-terrain board, known as either a mountainboard or landboard. The rider flies a steerable kite that pulls the rider and board much as a sail pulls a sailboat. The board can go upwind, downwind or across the wind at speeds from 8 to 80 kph or higher.

Why Landboarding?

Landboarding is a Faster, Cheaper, and Easier alternative to Kitesurfing, with all the thrills of Kitesurfing, without getting your feet wet! If you're not into the water thing, or on a tight budget, or just want to add another exciting way to ride, Landboarding could be for you.

This fast-moving, fast-growing sport combines the best elements of all-terrain mountain boarding and traction kites, and can be done on grass, dirt, hard-packed sand, salt and mud flats. LandBoarding is an ideal way to build skills for the water or just another great way to utilize the versatile power of a traction kite. 

With a proper lesson you could be up & riding in under 2 hours!   From 10 year olds to 65+, Landboarding can be taught to "almost" anyone. Landboarding offers something for everyone, from cruising the beach, to throwing down big airs and tricks. 

The advantages of Landboarding

• The wind is free, and you don’t need as much wind to Landboard as you do to Kitesurf.
  
  
• Landboarding gear (foil kite and Mountainboard) can be less than 1/2 the price  of gear for the water.
  
  
• Swimming skills not required, and you don't get wet... Well, not a lot..!
  
  
• Landboarding lessons are generally cheaper, less than 1/2 the price of a Kitesurfing lesson on the water.
  
  
• There are no sharks, stingrays or jellyfish on land.
  
  
• For the brave, you'll eventually learn how to boost high, spin, and glide in for soft landings.
  
  
• You can use the same board to to try a bit of Mountainboarding.
  
  
• Instant gratification.  Most people learn to ride a Landboard in under 2 hours.

It’s HUGE Fun and a great way to take advantage of the wind and wide open spaces.

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Styles of Landboarding?

There are a number of different styles of Landboarding that you can check out. The main two are Cruising & Freestyle.

Cruising

Cruising, (sometimes known as Speed Runs or Carving) is simply using the kite and landboard to travel at high speed, either in a straight-line or on long radius carving turns. This can be great fun if you have the space and the wind to do it. Lots of beginners start off learning to cruise at the beach or in large parks or domains, as it’s really very straight forward to master.

If you are thinking of taking up landboard cruising, you may want to invest in a longer landboard, (1 meter plus), for added stability with Channel type trucks to help with the dreaded ‘Speed Wobble’. Although longer is seen as better for cruising, any size board will work.

Freestyle

Freestyle Landboarding, (sometimes also called Tricks, Aerials or Big Air), uses the lift and power of the kite to throw down a series of complex moves, spins or jumps. Many landboard tricks are derived from skateboarding, (spins, grabs, grinds, etc), or wakeboarding, (rotations, loops, jumps, etc), but new landboarding & kitesurfing tricks are being invented all the time, (board-offs, Mobe, S-bends, etc). Learning freestyle can take some time to master and build up your confidence in, but it looks great and doesn’t need too much space to practice.

Generally a shorter, lighter board is better for Freestyle landboarding as it make the board more responsive to rider input and quicker to turn. Also a board with good ‘flex’ & ‘pop’ will help to both absorb landings and bumps, and also get higher air. But, as with Cruising, any board can be used to start to learn how to freestyle.

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So what do I need to start Landboarding?

You will 2 main items; you will need a Board, and you will need a Traction Kite.

The Board

Imagine a skateboard with over-sized wheels and tyres that can travel over rough ground, this is a Mountainboard. These come in a variety of shapes and sizes, some have 2 wheels, 3 wheels and 4 wheels, and are made out of a large number of different materials.

In general, a 4 wheel Mountainboard with either Channel or Skate trucks is the most common type of board used for Landboarding. A heavier rider may require a stronger and more stable board, where a lighter rider can ride a board that is shorter & lighter, which makes it easy to maneuver, do tricks or get air. Steering and suspension set ups often have some form of modification or adjustment available for control, comfort or enhancement.

Generally the longer the board the more stable it is. This helps tall people balance easier and allows the rider to reach higher speeds giving increased confidence and a smooth ride. These boards are often considered ideal for carving and are stronger for heavier riders. A shorter board is usually more responsive and requires quicker input from the rider. The advantage is they are lighter in weight and therefore more capable of being used for tricks and airs. They are often not ideal for simple high speed runs but unbeatable for maneuverability.

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The Kites

There are 3 main types of traction kite that can be used for Landboarding: -

1. The Foil or 'Ram Air' Kite
   
   Foil or Ram Air Kites are soft kites based around the design of a parafoil, and come in all sizes from less than 1.0m to 15m+. Foils are some of the most efficient of the power kites, as the aerofoil section means that they can provide significant lift and power when flown. They are generally made up of a number of open or closed cells configured into a wing or parafoil shape. The number of cells increase with the size of the kite with some or all of them having an opening to let the air in and inflate the cell.
   
   
   
   A modern foil kite is generally made from a toughened nylon material, such as Ripstop or Chikara, which gives a good balance between strength and weight. Attached to the underside of the flying surface is the bridle, which in turn connects the kite to the flying lines. Foils can be flown on either a control bar or ‘handles’ which are connected to either 2, 3 or 4 lines of varying length between 5 and 30m plus.
   
   Most conventional foils will have a comprehensive fixed bridle, arranged in rows, which lead to either 2 flying lines, (on a 2-line kite), or 2 flying lines & 2 brake lines, (on a 4-line kite). Fixed bridle kites are excellent for ‘traction’ or ‘pulling’ as they exhibit direct power characteristics, but can also be designed to have good lift qualities. Fixed bridled kites can be used for all types of Landboarding, but are particularly good for cruising and speed runs.
   
   
   
   More recently a number of manufacturers have introduced ‘de-power’ foil kites which feature an adjustable bridle configuration, operated from the control bar. By changing the length of either the flying lines or the brake lines, (by moving the control bar backwards or forwards along a fixed line), the aspect of the kite in flight can be modified and thereby changing the kites power characteristics. This allows a de-power kite of a particular size to be used in a much larger wind range than the same size fixed bridled kite. De-power kites can be used for all styles of Landboarding, but are particularly good for performing tricks or freestyle due to having the ability to increase the power and lift during mid flight.
   
   
   
   

2. Leading Edge Inflatable (LEI’s)
   
   A leading edge inflatable kite or LEI is a single skin kite with a series of inflatable bladders, that provide the structure along the leading edge to keep the kite in the correct ‘Arc’ shape when flown. LEI’s come in sizes from 5m to 20m+ and can be flown on 2, 4 or 5 flying lines. Most LEI’s do not have a conventional bridle and the flying lines are attached directly to the kite and flown using a de-power control bar.
   
   
   
   In general an LEI is used mainly on the water, (for Kitesurfing), because the inflated bladders help it to float and there are no cells that can fill with water. This means that an LEI can sit on the water surface for an indefinite time and still be relaunched.
   
   It is possible to use an LEI for Landboarding, although this is generally not the case, due to the risk of rupturing a bladder if the kite hits the ground too hard or get snagged on an obstacle, such as a tree or fence.
   
   
   
3. Twin-Skin or ‘Arc’
   
   A twin-skin or ‘Arc’ kite is constructed in a similar fashion to a foil but without a bridle, with the flying lines being attached directly to the reinforced wing tips. An Arc kite has a considerably larger volume than a Foil or LEI kite, and when in flight the kite forms a large semicircular or ‘Arch-like’ shape. Arc kites are also made from a toughened nylon material, such as Ripstop or Chikara, and generally come in sizes from 9m to 19m and are flown using a de-power control bar.
   
   
   
   Arc kites generally have a large number of cross-vented cells with air entry allowed through a non-return inlet for inflation. The kite is gains its shape by allowing the air into the kite via an inflation inlet, which are then sealed, giving the kite a level of rigidity. There is no ‘pumping’ of air into these kites as they can be inflated just by placing the air inlet into the prevailing wind and leting the kite self-inflate in a couple of minutes. Some Arcs also have a deflation or dump opening or flap on the trailing edge to allow for easier deflation after use.
   
   
   
   Arc Kites are commonly used for Landboarding and all other kite related sports, as they are very stable by design and luffing is almost impossible. The airflow around the kite is very clean which allows it to generate large amounts of power, lift and float making it ideal for freestyle landboarding. Due to the large quantity of enclosed air in an ‘Arc’ kite, they will also float and relaunch from the water, making them a good kite for Kitesurfing.

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Safety First

It cannot be stressed enough that flying a traction kite can be VERY DANGEROUS.

It is essential that you understand the dangers involved in the flying of a traction kite, how to assess the situation and surroundings, and how to use your safety gear properly. Even a small kite, (<3.0m) can generate enough energy to lift a fully grown adult off of their feet, and enough pull to drag an adult a considerable distance downwind.

Factor in the possibility of falling whilst travelling at 30 kph+ on a landboard, and you have a recipe for an accident if you are not prepared.

KITERS & LANDBOARDERS HAVE DIED BY IGNORING SAFETY ADVICE AND BY NOT WEARING THE RIGHT LEVEL OF PROTECTION.

Here is a list of things to consider: -

1. Always read the safety information on the product, and make sure you understand the built in safety features and how they work BEFORE flying your kite for the first time.
   
   
2. Always try to learn to fly your kite for the first time with an experienced instructor. If an instructor is not available, try and find expert flyers in your local area and ask them for help. You will surprised how many will gladly help you out.
   
   
3. Always wear the right safety equipment. A helmet is ESSENTIAL, and pads and gloves might just save you from injury.
   
   
4. Always seek expert advice regarding the wind conditions or the flying area. Do not fly in turbulent or gusty conditions. Never fly in extreme weather conditions such as thunder & lightening or stormy conditions.
   
   
5. Do not fly near obstacles, power lines, phone lines, trees, cars, railways and airports. Try and maintain a safe distance from downwind obstacles, (at least 200m), and between yourself and other kiters, people, and animals, especially when learning.
   
   
6. Start out with a smaller kite, (<3.0m) to learn & practice with in light winds, (<7 knots). Progress slowly and improve your skills gradually before flying larger kites. Make sure you understand how to rig your kite correctly and check it before take off. Learn how to safely take off and land in light winds, and how to do the same in stronger wind conditions.
   
   
7. At beach locations DO NOT SETUP within the safety flags of a surf club. Do not fly or ride the beach when it is busy, and remember to slow down when passing pedestrians or other beach-users. Dogs WILL chase you, it's an unwritten law of kite landboarding, just ignore then if you can.

REMEMBER THAT YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR YOURSELF & YOUR KITES AT ALL TIMES

RIDE RESPONSIBLY, RIDE SAFE

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What is the 'Wind Window'

The 'Wind Window' is the term used for the part of the sky within which you will be able to fly your kite.

If you stand with your back to the oncoming wind then the wind window is the area to the front and side in which the kite will fly.

The area of the wind window directly in front of you is known as the 'Powerzone', where your kite will generate maximum power. At the edges of the window, either left or right, or directly overhead, (known as the 'Zenith'), the power will be at its minimum. If you try to fly the kite beyond the edges of the wind window, the kite will 'luff' or stall, and fall from the sky.

Therefore the imaginary line between the far left hand and right hand sides of the window, going directy over your head, is the low power zone. Most traction kites will try to fly to the low power zone, usually directly above your head, if there is no steering input at the handles or on the bar.

It is important to understand the wind window when launching and landing the kite. Before flying, stand with your back to the wind and identify where the edge of the window lies, as it is safest to launch the kite towards the edge of the window, either right or left. Lay the kite out towards one edge of the window, and when you launch the kite should rise steadily, but without maximum power. In light wind conditions it may be necessary to launch the kite from the middle of the window, directly downwind in order to generate enough power to get the kite to lift. Only do this once you are experienced and in lighter wind conditions.

To land the kite, especially in stronger wind conditions, fly the kite to the extreme left or right edge of the wind window, and gradually bring it towards the gound. When maybe 1 metre from the ground, either head the leading edge of the kite into the ground, or pull on the brakes/engage the landing safety. Once the kite is safely down, make sure that the handles or bar are secured to stop the kite inflating or powering up, before releasing any safety leash.

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Some kite control drills to practice

Once you are confident in launching and landing your kite, you will need to practice some simple techniques or 'drills' to improve your flying skills and learn how the kite reacts.

Here are a number of simple 'Drills' to get you started and give you a good feel for the kite and the power it can generate: -

1. From the zenith, fly the kite to the left hand side of the window. Do this by pulling on the left handle or left hand side of the bar gently towards your body.
   
   
2. Fly the kite to the right hand side of the window by pulling gently on the right hand handle or right hand side of the bar.
   
   
3. Practice flying the kite in a 'figure 8' pattern on one side of the wind window. For example, starting at the zenith direct the kite left and down. When the kite is heading downward start to turn the kite back upwards. As you turn the kite continue the loop until the kite is fly towards the right. Before the kite reachs the centre line of the window, turn the kite upward back towards the zenith, completing the 'figure 8'
   
   
4. Do a number of figure 8's in the right side of the wind window. Then practice your figure 8's in the left hand side of the window.
   
   
5. Learn to fly the kite in a 'Sine Wave" pattern on each sie of the window. This is a sort of up-and-down pattern that will generate some power in the kite. To do this fly the kite from the zenith downward towards the bottom edge of the window, and when halfway down the window, turn the kite outwards and up to fly back to the zenith again.
   
   
6. Practice flying 'Sine Wave' patterns on both the left and right hand side of the window, and get used to the feel of the kite 'pulling' when going both up and down. Once you are confortable, practice flying a 'Sine Wave' more aggressively to generate more power.
   
   
7. When confident, try flying a 'Sine Wave' pattern on the right hand side of the window, while running to the right. This will give you a feel for what happens when you are moving on a landboard. Practice running and flying 'Sine Wave' patterns to both the left and the right.
   
   
8. Learn how to make the kite hover at 45 degrees on both edges of the wind window. Do this by bringing the kite down the side of the window and then keeping it stationary.
   
   
9. Once you have master hovering the kite, try doing it while running to the right and to the left.
   
   
10. Finally, lie on the ground with the kite hovering at zenith and dive the kite down to the left or right hand side of the wind window and use the power of the kite to pull yourself to a sitting position.  Do this a number of times on both sides, and then try pulling yourself to your feet.

Practice the above drills over the course of a couple of sessions when first learning, to improve your kite skills. REMEMBER: Landboarding is 70% kite skills and 30% board skills. Always take thing easy to begin with and build up your confidence slowly.

Please also read the excellent 'Basics' guide at the KiteATB website here

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Step on your board and move off...

Now that you have learnt the basic kite flying skills, you will want to step on to your board and start riding.

REMEMBER: Be aware of where you are landboarding. Make sure the conditions are good for learning, that the wind is 'clean' and not too gusty. Also check before moving off each time that there are no obstacles or obstructions in the direction you wish to ride, and that there are no people, pedestrians or animals within 300m of you. Wear your helmet and engage your safety devices even in low winds.

Decide on which direction you wish to travel, and aim your board about 30-40 degrees downwind in that direction, otherwise known as 'Broad Reach'.

Now step into the bindings and lower the kite gently into the the wind window in the direction you want to move. Once you start moving lean on the healside of the board to direct it back into the wind a little until you are moving across the wind, or on a 'Beam Reach'.

Slowly raise and lower your kite in a 'Sine Wave' pattern on the same side of the wind window to increase your speed and lean back against the pull of the kite. Once you reach a comfortable speed you should be able to 'set' the kite at an 40-60 degree angle to provide a constant level of power. To slow your speed, gently raise you kite higher in the window until to reach the zenith, after which you should roll to a stop. You can also lean on the healside of the board to take you upwind or 'Close Reach' while bringing your kite to the zenith for a quicker stop.

To travel in the other direction, repeat the above instructions but in the opposite direction. You should soon start to get a feel for the kite and how to use it whilst in motion on the board.

Once you become more confident you will start to notice that when you agressively fly the kite down the window, you will have a tendency to start to edge upwind. Alternatively, when the kite is flown agressively towards the top of the wind window, you will notice that the power of the kite will tend to pull you downwind slightly. You can use these traits to help with directing the board in the direction you want to go.

Please also read the excellent 'Basics' guide at the KiteATB website here

Note: This guide is only meant as an introduction to landboarding and in is in no way intended to be a full or complete instruction manual. Please remember that the best resource for learning the basics of Landboarding is other Landboarders. Talk to your local flyers who will only be too happy to help.

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